The first winter ascent of the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest (8848 m), took place on 17 February 1980. This was done by two Poles, but all members of the Polish expedition were involved in the success. 

The decision to attempt the world’s highest peak in winter, Mount Everest or the second highest, K2/Czogori (8611 m), was taken in 1977 by the Polish Mountaineering Association. At that time, both mountains remained unclimbed during the winter season. 

Over the following years, preparations and formal processes for obtaining permission from the Nepalese authorities to climb the world’s highest peak continued. In December 1979, the team led by Polish Himalayan mountaineer Andrzej Zawada set off for the Himalayas. The mountainous part of the expedition began in early 1980. 

By 26 January, the expedition was going well for the Polish Himalayan climbers. 10 days earlier, they had set up camp III at 7150 metres above sea level. The next stage was to be Camp IV, located at around 8000 m. Unfortunately, on 26 January, a hurricane wind kicked up, forcing the expedition to be put on hold until 9 February. Conditions were harsh and the climbers suffered frostbite. 

Four days later, Leszek Cichy, Krzysztof Wielicki and Walenty Fiut set up Camp IV. Later Ryszard Szafirski arrived there and left them oxygen cylinders. Andrzej Zawada, who was accompanying him, felt unwell and started to descend to Camp III. Unfortunately, he passed this point and found himself 200m below camp. After a short time, the expedition leader was found. The climbers knew that permission to climb the mountain was valid only until 15 February, so they were pressed for time. 

Fortunately, the Nepalese authorities agreed to allow two extra days. On 16 February, the weather was beautiful below the summit of Everest. On that day Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy set off for the summit attack. On 17 February 1980, at 14.40 local time, they became the first people to climb the highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest, in winter. They left there a rosary from St John Paul II and a thermometer to measure low temperatures. 

Years later, Wielicki recalled that conditions were extremely harsh. He said that had it not been for Everest, they probably would have given up.